Distinguished filmmaker, Richard Newman and I are thrilled to release the recast of “Addicted to Joy.” Discover the evolution of surfing’s cultural history and be captivated by its liberating lifestyle – It’s all connected…

“Addicted to Joy”…

In 1997, Larry Fuller made a life-changing decision to leave his job in real estate to seek his dream of leaving his mark on the world of surfing.

He bought a large van that doubled as his home and drove to Santa Cruz, California, and where Larry’s dream would begin about three years later when someone gave Larry a small piece of a 2,700-year-old Giant Sequoia redwood. Instinctively, Larry knew that he had to find the gentleman who gathered all of this redwood.

In 2010, Larry was being interviewed by a local newspaper and by happenstance, in the same room, was Jan Petersen, the “steward” of the 2700-year-old 284 foot high Giant Sequoia that had fallen to the ground during a snowstorm in 1964.

Petersen was the man responsible for milling the fallen giant and ensuring the wood from this tree would only be used for the best, and most honorable purpose.

Larry told Petersen about his plans to gather the most prestigious and influential shapers in surfing to display their skills by shaping a surfboard from one of the many 18-foot redwood slabs were milled from this rare 2,700-year-old tree. Petersen told Larry, “The energy that is in this wood is like none other.”

Our story begins…

This is a love story about a way of life that dates back to the early Polynesians in the 12th Century.

We honor all the surfers and shapers that dedicated their lives to be happy, with respect for nature,

In the ocean, and the natural world because you didn’t have it any other way.

Theirs was, and still is, an attitude that’s universal, transcends politics, and with ALOHA in their heart.

Meet these legendary surfers and preeminent craftsmen…

Native Hawaiian shaping master, Tom “Pohaku” Stone, talks about the evolution of surfboards and

the solid wood boards of his ancestors. Meet Australian surfer Wayne Lynch, surfboard craftsmen

Billy Hamilton, Donald Takayama, Al Merrick, Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez, Paul Strauch, and George Downing. These notable are

just some of the 30 illustrious surfers and shapers that worked with Larry.

We honor these people and honor their history…

Wayne Lynch, Australia’s surfing great says, “It’s about relationships at all levels and an amazing cultural connection, with depth,

with meaning, and with continuity. Paul Strauch said, “I was taught to respect the ocean and the beauty of nature, the most powerful force on earth.”

And added, “In nature, we are all part of a whole, and we have an obligation to understand that relationship.

Billy Hamilton started surfing in 1959. He said, “Back then, we were looked at as bums. We were just too free. We had a license to fly and we did.”

You have to put your time in to really feel the magic…

Big wave pioneer, Darrick Doerner, said, “I learned from Mother Nature that you have to have ‘patience’. You have to put your time in to really feel the magic.”

The passion and the “magic” in Larry’s journey have been ongoing for over 20 years and are what led him into the very heart and soul of surfing and surf culture.

We invite you to come along and enjoy the ride.